Installing aluminum composite panel correctly is the difference between a facade that stays flat and beautiful for 20 years and one that delaminates, ripples or fails prematurely. Whether you are cladding a commercial building, fixing signage panels or installing interior feature walls, this step-by-step guide covers cutting, routing, fixing, jointing and finishing to professional standards.
Gather your tools before starting: a panel router with V-groove cutter, circular saw with fine-tooth carbide blade, measuring tape, laser level, screw gun with stainless steel screws, rubber mallet, sealant gun and safety gear. Always wear gloves, eye protection and a dust mask when cutting aluminum. Work on a clean, flat support surface; never cut panels directly on the ground. Feiteng recommends routing on a dedicated workbench to avoid scratching the painted surface.
Measure carefully and add 3-5 mm clearance at each edge for thermal movement. Mark the reverse side with a pencil. Cut with a fine-tooth blade (at least 60 teeth) at moderate speed to avoid edge burrs and coating delamination. For kitchen splashback panels, cut precisely to fit between worktop and cabinets. After cutting, deburr edges with a file and wipe away aluminum dust, which can stain the coating if left wet.
To create clean boxed edges, use a V-groove router on the reverse side. Set the cutter depth so it leaves the front skin plus a thin layer of core intact — typically around 0.3-0.5 mm. This lets you fold the panel by hand into a crisp 90-degree corner without cracking the front skin. Route all corners before fixing. For curved features, use score-and-bend techniques or order pre-curved cassettes from the factory.
ACP must be fixed to a rigid subframe of aluminum extrusions, galvanized steel rails or timber battens, never directly to masonry. The subframe must be level, plumb and securely fixed to the structure. Leave a 20-30 mm cavity behind the panel for drainage and ventilation — this is critical for exterior facades to prevent trapped moisture and thermal bowing. Follow the rainscreen principle: the cavity must drain and ventilate from bottom to top.
There are two main fixing methods. Concealed fixing uses hidden clips or rivets on the routed folded edges, leaving a clean face with no visible fasteners — preferred for high-end facades. Exposed fixing uses stainless steel screws or pop rivets through the face, covered with matching caps — faster and cheaper for signage and utility applications. Always use stainless steel fasteners; galvanized or steel screws will corrode and leave stains. Do not over-tighten; panels must be free to expand and contract.
Leave 4-8 mm joints between panels for thermal movement. For open-joint facades, leave the gap open and let the cavity drain. For closed joints, back-fill with a closed-cell foam rod and finish with a neutral-cure silicone sealant matched to the panel color. Avoid acid-cure sealants, which can attack the aluminum coating. Clean excess sealant immediately with isopropyl alcohol before it skins over.
Remove the protective film within two weeks of installation — leaving it on longer causes adhesive residue when the sun bakes it. Wash panels with mild soap and water, never abrasive cleaners or solvents. For building-grade exterior panels, inspect fixings and sealant annually. Our project gallery shows professionally installed facades across 56 countries.
Do not fix panels directly to brickwork without a subframe. Do not use too few fixings — follow the recommended fixing schedule, typically every 300 mm along edges and 600 mm across the panel. Do not omit the ventilated cavity. Do not use steel or galvanized screws on coastal projects — salt air requires 316 stainless. Do not leave the protective film on in direct sun. Avoid abrasive sponges, scouring pads and solvent-based cleaners that will dull the PVDF finish.
Bathroom and wet-area panels need waterproof joints and corrosion-resistant fixings. Digital-printed panels must be handled face-up and not routed on the printed side. Vehicle and ship grade panels require vibration-resistant fixings and marine-grade sealant. For any complex facade, engage a certified cladding installer rather than relying on general builders.
Feiteng provides installation drawings, fixing schedules and on-site guidance for large projects. Our engineering team can review your subframe design and recommend the correct panel thickness and fixing method. Contact us with your elevations and we will supply the technical data sheets and installation details your installer needs.
Q: Can I install ACP myself?
A: Small interior projects and splashbacks are DIY-friendly with basic tools. Exterior facades, high-rises and fire-rated installations should be done by certified professionals.
Q: What gap between panels?
A: 4-8 mm for external facades to allow thermal movement. Interior joints can be tighter.
Q: How long does installation take?
A: A two-person team typically installs 30-50 square meters of cassette cladding per day on a prepared subframe.
Q: Can ACP be glued instead of screwed?
A: Bonding is possible for interior panels on suitable substrates, but mechanical fixing is recommended for exterior facades.
Even experienced installers occasionally make errors that compromise the facade. Over-tightening screws causes panel warping; under-tightening allows movement and rattling. Use a torque driver set to the manufacturer's specification, typically 4-6 Nm. Another common mistake is omitting the ventilated cavity. Without airflow, trapped moisture condenses behind the panels, causing corrosion, staining and delamination. The cavity must be open at the bottom and top for ventilation. Also, ensure the subframe is designed for the panel size: large panels need stronger supports, and fixings must be placed within 50 mm of each corner to prevent edge lifting. Always use the correct gasket and sealing tape. For vehicle and ship grade panels, use vibration-resistant fixings and marine-grade sealant. When in doubt, consult the manufacturer's installation manual rather than improvising.
Feiteng provides installers worldwide with detailed fixing drawings, subframe recommendations and material data sheets. Our export engineers speak English, Spanish and Russian and can review your facade drawings before shipment. We supply both finished cassette panels and flat sheets for local fabrication, along with compatible stainless fasteners and sealant guidance. With 30 years of manufacturing experience and 110,000 square meters of production space, we support projects from single-shopfront jobs to multi-building developments. Request installation guidance or a quote today and our team will respond within one business day.
For a typical ACP installation project, assemble: fine-tooth circular saw or panel saw, V-groove router with 90-degree cutter, tape measure and laser level, screw gun with torque setting, stainless steel screws or rivets, neutral-cure silicone sealant, foam backing rod, isopropyl alcohol and clean rags, safety gloves, goggles and dust mask. Keep spare panels on site — a scratched or damaged panel is best replaced immediately rather than patched. Plan the installation sequence from top to bottom or left to right, and pre-drill all fixing holes to avoid thermal stress. With the right tools and careful preparation, a professional ACP installation is straightforward and produces a flawless facade.
Zhangjiagang Feiteng New Composite Materials Co., Ltd.
Address:No.77 Huada Road, Environmental & New Material Industry Park, Bonded Port Zone, Zhangjiagang City, Jiangsu, China
Phone:+86 18151586877
E-mail:info@feitengacp.com
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